Hair Type Chart: The Complete 1A–4C Identification Guide
Every hair texture, explained. Use this chart to identify your curl pattern, understand what your strands actually need, and stop wasting money on products that fight your hair instead of working with it.
The Andre Walker hair typing system
The modern hair type chart — popularized by Oprah's longtime stylist Andre Walker — groups textures into four families (straight, wavy, curly, coily) and three subtypes (A, B, C) based on the width and tightness of the pattern. That gives you twelve possible hair types, from 1A (poker straight) to 4C (tightly coiled).
Knowing your type takes the guesswork out of your routine: it tells you which shampoo, how often to condition, whether to diffuse or air-dry, and which ingredients to skip.
Quick self-test
- Wash with a clarifying shampoo — no conditioner, no product.
- Let hair air-dry completely without touching it.
- Look at the natural pattern that forms and match it to the chart below.
Type 1 — Straight
No natural curl. Strands fall from root to tip in a straight line and reflect the most light, which is why type 1 hair often looks the shiniest.
Fine & Straight
Poker-straight, no visible bend
Very fine, soft, sits flat against the scalp, hard to hold a curl
Lightweight volumizing shampoo, dry shampoo between washes, avoid heavy oils
Rich butters, silicones that weigh strands down
Medium Straight
Straight with subtle body
More volume than 1A, holds curl briefly with heat
Balanced shampoo, light leave-in, heat protectant before styling
Over-washing (strips natural oils)
Coarse Straight
Straight with slight waves near ends
Thick individual strands, frizz-prone in humidity
Hydrating shampoo, weekly deep conditioner, anti-frizz serum
Sulfates that dry out coarse strands
Type 2 — Wavy
Loose S-shaped waves. Sits between straight and curly — usually flat at the roots with more definition through the mid-lengths and ends.
Loose Waves
Barely-there S-bends
Straightens easily, waves activate when damp
Light mousse or sea-salt spray, air dry, avoid heavy creams
Brushing when dry (breaks the wave)
Defined Waves
Clear S-shape from mid-length
Frizz-prone at the crown, waves hold shape
Sulfate-free shampoo, curl cream, scrunch with a microfiber towel
Terrycloth towels, high-heat blow-drying without a diffuser
Thick Waves
Deeper S-waves, occasional spirals
Coarse strands, prone to frizz, sits between wavy and curly
Rich conditioner, curl-defining gel, diffuse on low heat
Alcohol-based products that cause frizz
Type 3 — Curly
Well-defined springy curls that form loops. Type 3 hair has natural bounce but tends toward dryness because scalp oils struggle to travel down the curl.
Loose Curls
Large, loopy curls (~sharpie-width)
Shiny, big loose ringlets, easy to straighten
Moisturizing shampoo, lightweight curl cream, plopping method
Combing when dry, heavy silicones
Springy Curls
Tighter curls (~marker-width)
Dense curls, more volume, prone to shrinkage
Co-wash weekly, deep condition, use LOC method (Leave-in, Oil, Cream)
Sulfates, cotton pillowcases (use satin/silk)
Tight Curls
Tight corkscrew curls (~pencil-width)
High density, significant shrinkage, easily tangled
Rich cream cleansers, finger-detangle when soaked, protein treatment monthly
Rough brushing, high heat
Type 4 — Coily
Tight coils and zig-zag patterns. The most fragile hair type — needs the most moisture and the gentlest handling.
Soft Coils
Defined coils (~crochet-needle width)
Springy, retains moisture better than 4B/4C, wet-defined pattern
Weekly deep condition, water-based leave-in, seal with oil
Drying shampoos, tight styling that snaps coils
Z-Pattern Coils
Zig-zag rather than curl
Cotton-like feel, less defined pattern, 50–75% shrinkage
Moisture-heavy routine, protective styles, pre-poo with oil
Detangling dry, harsh sulfates
Densely Coiled
Very tight zig-zag, minimal visible curl
Highest shrinkage (up to 75%+), fragile, densest hair type
Section-by-section detangling with conditioner, protective styling, satin bonnet nightly
Any dry manipulation, cotton headwear
Density, porosity & thickness
Your curl pattern is only part of the story. Three other traits shape what your hair actually needs day to day:
- Density — how many strands you have per square inch. Low, medium, or high. Higher density needs more product and longer drying time.
- Porosity — how easily your hair absorbs and holds moisture. Low porosity resists water; high porosity soaks it up but loses it fast.
- Strand thickness — fine, medium, or coarse. Fine strands weigh down easily; coarse strands can handle heavier products.
A 3B with low porosity needs a completely different routine from a 3B with high porosity — even though the curl pattern is identical.
How to find a salon that specializes in your type
Not every stylist is trained on every texture. A barber who fades 1A hair beautifully may have never cut a 4C afro. On MyHairQue, every salon lists exactly which hair types (1A–4C) they specialize in, so you can filter and book with confidence.
Frequently asked questions
Book a stylist who knows your hair type
Filter salons by hair type specialty (1A–4C) and book with a professional trained on your exact texture.